Thomas Keller's roast chicken

Thomas Keller's roast chicken

There was a question on Ask Metafilter last year calling for good recipes with the fewest possible ingredients. There's some great stuff there, but where's the roast chicken? Roast chicken is the ultimate basic meal. It's filling enough to be dinner, and served with some mustard and potatoes or crusty bread you've got a complete meal with only four ingredients.

As is always the case with such basic recipes, you simply can't get away with using low quality ingredients. I understand the budget-conscious mindset and will buy cheaper chicken if it's going into a heavily-flavoured curry, but for roasting you have to buy the best. Free range is a sign of quality, but if you can, ask a trusted butcher to help you choose.

There are loads of techniques out there from compound butters to multi-temperature roasts, but who'd have thought the most straightforward recipe would come from Thomas Keller? Not surprisingly, it's also the best. I'm sure that at Per Se and The French Laundry he roasts his chickens suspended mid-air in a pressure-controlled bunker exactly 154 meters below sea level, but for home cooks the Bouchon method is very accessible. It will smoke out a kitchen that isn't well-ventilated, but some carbon monoxide poisoning is worth it for the crispy golden skin and juicy flesh.

Thomas Keller's roast chicken

Ingredients:

  • One small/medium (900g-1.35kg) chicken
  • 1 tbsp coarse salt
  • Cracked black pepper
  • 2 tsp minced thyme

1. Preheat your oven to 230ºC/450ºF. Rinse the chicken inside and out, and dry well with paper towels. Sprinkle all over with the salt and black pepper.
2. Truss the chicken and roast in the oven for 50-60 minutes, until the chicken is cooked. Test by piercing the thigh with a sharp knife — when cooked through, the juices will run clear.
3. Mix the thyme with the juices that have collected in the roasting pan, and baste the outside of the chicken with this. Rest for 15 minutes, then carve and serve.

You could stop there and enjoy it with butter, fresh bread, and some mustard. However on this particular occasion Rowan was coming around with some wine that needed drinking, so I felt compelled to dress it up a little. Not too much, though. On the side were some papas arrugadas — potatoes boiled in very salty water then drained and left wrinkly and encrusted with a fine later of salt — and a simple sauce of reduced chicken stock, crème fraiche, dijon mustard, and butter.

Rowan's 2003 Hahndorf Hill Chardonnay was subdued and had a subtle sweetness that matched perfectly with the chicken. I've drunk great wine with great food before, but this was one of the rare occasions where the food and wine really did work hand in hand. Life is good.

Roast chicken with papas arrugadas and dijon cream sauce

Comments

1 arundathi (August 19, 2008 at 02:11 AM)

wow - thats some amazing looking chicken! and thomas keller, no less! lovely!!

2 Helen (August 19, 2008 at 03:17 AM)

I sometimes think there is nothign better than a good roast chicken, one of my all time favourite meals. This looks like a fine version and then you get the lovely leftover bones etc. - fantastic. The crispy skin is the best bit, of course!

3 Joe (August 19, 2008 at 09:11 AM)

Looks great. I haven't really done much whole chicken... this might be the inspiration.

4 jasmine (August 19, 2008 at 12:30 PM)

What a beautiful bird you have there.

I must admit to giggling whenever I see an overly complicated recipe for roast chicken: simple--one temp, a few seasonings is best in my books...

j

5 emily (August 20, 2008 at 12:55 AM)

What a gorgeous recipe! It inspires me to overcome my fear of roasting a chicken. I'm afraid to dry it out or overcook it. This doesn't sound quite so scary. Beautiful picture!

6 The Urban Eater (August 20, 2008 at 02:57 AM)

Oooo, but you have to have the dijon! It really does something wonderful to the chicken. I double dose, I smear the chicken with dijon and use it for dipping the succulent roasted chicken. Just made it last week, in fact. TK rocks.

7 Jaye (August 21, 2008 at 11:31 AM)

This is my go-to recipe. I posted about it on my blog a while back and created a frenzy! Isn't it just the ultimate comfort food? I'm glad to see others talking about it's wonder as well.

8 [eatingclub] vancouver || js (August 21, 2008 at 04:17 PM)

Only one word.

WOW.

9 Patricia Scarpin (August 22, 2008 at 09:37 PM)

Tim, this chicken looks exactly like the one my mom used to make - and she loved it!

10 Mrs. L (August 23, 2008 at 09:21 AM)

Dang it's that simple? This one I could try!

11 anita (December 02, 2008 at 07:42 AM)

i made this recipe the other night- i did stuff the cavity with my left-over thyme, and i did a variation of the marcella-hazan-chicken-with-2-lemons recipe in that i had the chicken breast down for 30 minutes, then flipped it for the remainder of the roasting, and i sealed the bird's cavity as best i could. it turned out great- perfectly juicy and with the real taste of thyme. great recipe.

12 Cathy (December 21, 2008 at 01:59 PM)

I have been roasting chickens at 350 degrees for 30 years, and have recently read about using higher temperatures. I did my turkey at 500 degrees for Thanksgiving, and this week did a 6 pound oven stuffer roaster, also at 500 degrees for 10 minutes per pound. The high temperature is definitely the way to go. The skin comes out browner and crisper, and the meat is juicy and tender. I will never go back to the slow roasting method again. It tends to dry the meat and just isn't as tasty.

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